Taming the unruly wave of a stretchy hem can feel like wrestling an octopus—lots of arms going in different directions and a surprisingly slippery opponent. Moreover, a poorly executed hem can ruin the drape and flow of a beautiful garment, turning a potential showstopper into a wardrobe wallflower. Therefore, successfully hemming stretchy fabric requires a delicate balance of technique and patience. Fortunately, achieving a professional-looking finish on materials like jersey, spandex, and knit fabrics is entirely within reach, even for beginners. This guide will unravel the mysteries of hemming stretchy fabrics, providing you with the tools and techniques to conquer even the most challenging knits and achieve perfectly even, professionally finished hems every time. From understanding the unique properties of stretch fabrics to choosing the right needle and thread, we’ll cover every step of the process, ensuring your hems lie flat and complement your garment beautifully.
First and foremost, selecting the correct needle and thread is crucial. A standard sewing needle can damage the delicate fibers of stretchy fabric, resulting in skipped stitches or even runs. Instead, opt for a ballpoint or stretch needle, specifically designed to glide between the fibers without snagging or tearing. Furthermore, choosing the right thread is equally important. A regular polyester thread lacks the necessary elasticity to accommodate the fabric’s movement. Consequently, it can break easily, leaving you with an unraveling hem. Therefore, using a specialized stretch thread, such as wooly nylon or polyester-wrapped elastane, is highly recommended. These threads offer the flexibility and resilience needed to maintain the integrity of the seam, even under stress. In addition to the right tools, preparing your fabric is essential. Pre-washing the fabric is paramount, as stretchy materials often shrink after the first wash. Hemming before washing could result in a hemline that’s too short after laundering. Finally, using a walking foot can significantly improve the feeding of stretchy fabric through the sewing machine, preventing uneven stitching and fabric distortion.
Once you have the correct tools and your fabric is prepared, you can choose from several hemming techniques. One popular method is the double-folded hem. This technique involves folding the raw edge of the fabric twice and stitching along the top fold. While seemingly straightforward, precision is key with this method. Firstly, accurately measure and mark your desired hemline to ensure an even finish. Secondly, use pins sparingly to avoid distorting the fabric. Alternatively, fabric clips can offer a gentler grip. Another option, particularly suitable for lightweight knits, is the narrow rolled hem. This technique utilizes a specialized sewing machine foot or a serger to create a tiny, barely-there hem. While this method requires specialized equipment, it delivers a clean, professional finish. Finally, for a more decorative touch, consider using a coverstitch machine. This machine creates parallel rows of stitching on the right side of the fabric and a serged finish on the underside, providing both aesthetic appeal and durability. Ultimately, the best hemming method depends on the fabric’s weight, stretchiness, and the desired look of the finished garment. Experimenting with different techniques on scraps of fabric is always recommended before tackling the final hem.
Hemming Stretchy Fabric
Hemming stretchy fabric can be tricky, as traditional methods can result in a wavy, uneven hemline or a loss of stretch. The key is to choose techniques that allow the fabric to retain its elasticity. Several methods achieve this, including using a twin needle, a coverstitch machine, or a zigzag stitch with a walking foot. Regardless of your chosen method, testing on a scrap of fabric is crucial to ensure the stitch settings are correct and the desired result is achieved. Preparing the fabric with a stay stitch or using a fusible interfacing can also help stabilize the hem and prevent stretching during the sewing process.
Another important consideration is the type of hem. A narrow rolled hem works well for lightweight knits, while a wider hem might be more appropriate for heavier fabrics. For a professional finish, consider using a woolly nylon thread in the bobbin. This creates a softer, more flexible seam that allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the threads. Finally, remember to handle the fabric gently throughout the process to avoid distorting it.
People Also Ask About Hemming Stretchy Fabric
How do you hem stretchy fabric without it being wavy?
A wavy hemline on stretchy fabric is often caused by the fabric stretching during the sewing process. Several techniques can prevent this. Firstly, use a walking foot. This feeds the fabric evenly from both the top and bottom, preventing the fabric from stretching as it moves under the needle. Secondly, consider using a twin needle or a coverstitch machine, both of which create more elastic seams that move with the fabric. Lastly, a zigzag stitch with a slightly longer stitch length can also be effective.
What stitch should I use to hem stretchy fabric?
The best stitch for hemming stretchy fabric depends on the look you’re going for and the equipment you have available. A twin needle creates two parallel rows of stitching on the top and a zigzag stitch on the underside, allowing for maximum stretch. A coverstitch machine creates a professional-looking hem with multiple rows of stitching that cover the raw edge. If using a regular sewing machine, a small zigzag stitch is a good option. Avoid a straight stitch, as it lacks the flexibility needed for stretchy fabrics and can break when the fabric stretches.
Can you use fusible interfacing on stretchy fabric?
Yes, you can use fusible interfacing on stretchy fabric, but it’s crucial to select the right type. Choose a knit or stretch interfacing that moves with the fabric. Apply the interfacing to the hem allowance before sewing to stabilize the fabric and prevent stretching during the hemming process. This can also help prevent a wavy hemline. Test the interfacing on a scrap of fabric first to ensure it doesn’t negatively affect the drape or stretch of the fabric.
What is woolly nylon thread, and should I use it when hemming stretchy fabric?
Woolly nylon is a textured nylon thread that is very elastic. It is often used in the bobbin when sewing with stretchy fabrics. The loft of the woolly nylon allows the seam to stretch without breaking the thread, creating a softer, more flexible hem. While not strictly necessary, woolly nylon can significantly improve the quality and durability of hems on stretchy garments.